Travels of Wildcat

Anegada at last

2012-02-13T07:37:00.002-04:00

We started coming to the BVIs in 1976 for our honeymoon but have never managed to sail to Anegada. Yesterday we finally made it - seems like we are back in the Bahamas. We had a great sail over from Saint Martin where we spent 2 1/2 weeks and lots of money. Don't like being there during high season - too many boats. Hopefully we will return in May/June and haul out for hurricane season, But in the meantime there are the Virgins to explore.

Helping Santa

2011-12-19T07:56:00.004-04:00

Santa (John from Metalia) and three elves help the Lion's Club of Antigua bring Christmas joy to the Children.

In antigua

2011-11-27T11:30:00.001-04:00

Back In Antigua with our good friends John and Marie. Will stay until the new year.

In Dehaies, Guadaloupe

2011-11-20T06:50:00.001-04:00

Had several great sailing days to reach the Saints, then the winds stopped. Maybe will have to motor to Antigua. Great diving around Pelican Island, Guadaloupe.

In Saint Lucia

2011-11-10T16:36:00.002-04:00

Three good days of sailing brought us from Grenada to Marigot Bay, Saint Lucia. Almost made all our easting for this trip. Plan to spend a few days here then onto Martinique to resupply with French goodies.

Start of Fifth Season In Caribbean

2011-11-09T15:04:00.002-04:00

We returned to Wildcat October 16th from Florida to start our fifth season in the Caribbean. Thanks to the abundant rain, Wildcat looked better than any other time we returned to the boat. Unfortunately persistent rain made preparations for relaunch more difficult but we managed to get in after only one week. Spent the next two weeks getting her ready for sea and joining the Mt. Airy Reading program twice. Great to to see old friends again. We plan to go to New Jersey for Christmas this year for the first time in a long time. Where are our cold weather clothes? Plan to leave from Antigua December 22 so need to keep moving north when the weather permits.

Engine Rebuild

2010-08-04T08:31:00.012-04:00

It started with a small leak, actually three small leaks. The first one I noticed was the leaking raw water pump. I decided to wait till we got to Antigua to fix it in case I needed access to a Yanmar dealer. Then I noticed a small fuel leak on the fuel filter. While running the engine after fixing both leaks, I noticed that there was also a small oil leak at the breather tube cap and, more ominously, exhaust fumes in the engine compartment. I replaced the breather cap gasket and solved both problems but I was suspicious about the exhaust leak so I removed the breather tube and found exhaust gases rushing out of the valve cover. In addition the engine started stalling when put into gear. I had a compression test done in Falmouth Harbour and discovered that the #3 cylinder had low compression. Hoping it was only a stuck ring, I tried soaking the cylinder with wd-40 and pb-blaster unsuccessfully. Because our son and his wife were coming to Antigua, we decided to wait on any repairs and learned how to maneuver the boat using only the port engine. After our son and daughter-in-law left, we pulled the head to see if it was cracked. It looked fine but wd-40 quickly ran past the rings on #3 but not the other cylinders, so we knew we had a ring problem. I bought a new piston and rings, thinking that I could replace the one piston, probably at the marina in St. Lucia. However a second problem, the loss of our refrigerator, prompted a visit to Sint Maarten instead because of the wealth of support services available there. That was a fortunate decision.
We removed the starter, alternator, heat exchanger and head (to reduce weight). Here the engine is separated from the saildrive.

Using a block and tackle jockeyed the engine into the cockpit.
We removed the cockpit table and arranged a working area there using old towels and the stainless steel base of a defunct solar panel.

This took three hoists, first with the boom to the cockpit coaming. Then to the cockpit seat and finally the cockpit floor using the bimini as a hoisting point. When we finally were able to remove the piston, we discovered that the top compression ring was broken in three and the second compression ring was shattered.

The piston itself was fractured between the rings.

Luckily Simpson Bay Diesel, the local Yanmar dealer, was close by to the Marina where we were staying and they said that the engine needed to be bored and sleeved. Here you can see the scratches made by the broken rings.

Fortunately, there was a good machine shop on the French side called Mendall. However this meant that we had to strip the engine down to the block. Since this required a special deep well socket which I did not have, we brought the engine (using our grocery cart) to Simpson Bay Diesel where they were able to remove the governor nut. We dinghied the stripped down block over to the French side after Bastille day and they were able to bore and sleeve in one day.
Here is what the cylinder looked like after the sleeve was inserted.

We slowly put the engine back together, working out a detailed plan of what needed to be done, what tools were needed, torque specifications, etc. We were given a respite on Sunday due to the rain of the system that eventually become Bonnie. Two weeks after we started, we were finished with no extra parts and only three missing parts (which we later discovered after improvising replacements). The engine started better than ever and we decided to take a mini cruise to St. Barts to test the engine. So far all is working well.

Neither Simpson Bay Diesel nor Mendall had ever seen a piston with a ring as shattered as ours and they both suspected that it occurred during manufacturing or assembly. Since we had almost 2200 hours on the engine, it took quite a long time to show up. However, that engine had a persistent leak from the rear main seal (which was half out of the end cap when we disassembled the engine) and more curiously, the timing cover gasket blew out at the bottom and had to be replaced three years ago. So we may have always had a ring blow by problem that suddenly got worse in Antigua. Getting the engine out of the engine compartment is relatively easy and working on the engine in the cockpit worked out quite well. I took pictures of everything before I started and during the disassembly which proved invaluable during re-assembly. We studied that engine manual each morning before we started and planned each day in detail. I also used the parts manual to make sure we replaced all relevant gaskets, o-rings and copper washers. Having easy access to a Yanmar dealer and good machine shops was crucial to the successful resolution of our problem. Besides the sleeving, we needed to have the crankshaft bearings pressed in.

Here Pam is cleaning the engine compartment which is much easier with the engine removed.

2010-02-01T15:36:00.011-04:00

We returned to Wildcat 24January2010. Since we were way out at Grenada Marine, we rented a car for the week. We found no major problems and took a week to prepare Wildcat for launching.

Strapping up for the trip back to the water.

Wildcat heading back to her natural element. In the water, all systems seemed functional and we left for Carricou only 4 days after launching. Everything was on track for a rendevous in Puerto Rico for Pam's father birthday near the end of March ...... Until the appendix attack. After a doctor in Carricou diagnosed a possible appendix problem. we immediately sailed back to Grenada where our friends the Pascals helped us choose the best hospital and surgeon on the island.

Meet Dr. Jorge Dominguez Aljaiek, Professor at St. George's University School of Medicine and General Surgeon. We feel lucky to have his services available to us.

We were also lucky that the St. Augustine's had an excellent chef in Tyrone who prepared us home cooked local dishes that were delicious. We spent 17 days at Port Louis Marine in St. George's Lagoon. Unfortunately we left before we should have, hoping to get back on schedule. Silly us, we are retired - no need for schedules. Anyway after a rough trip back to Carricou, we decided to abandon the preconceived schedule and let nature dictate our itinerary. We traveled the
5 miles to Clifton which is in the Grenadines St. Vincent and the to Bequia. A long day's sail brought us to St. Lucia for a short stay (to replace our broken French Press) and then Le Marins, Martinique for some serious provisioning at the local Leader Price, Champion and Ed Supermarkets (wine, cheese and pates e.g.).

The unsettled weather in Martinique helped us replenish our water supplies.

St Lucia Southbound

2009-07-29T15:19:00.009-04:00

We left Martinique for a one week stay in St. Lucia. From Rodney Bay we hopped a local bus to Castries (the capitol) for market day.

The bounty the island is available here. The vegetables on the left are Christophenes which can be added to curries, stews and salads.

Venders fill the market space and spill out onto the streets. Here there are fresh eggs (bring your own cartons), drinks. The lady on the right is holding a Breadfruit, introduced to the islands by Captain Bligh on his second breadfruit voyage. You might remember that his first breadfruit voyage was terminated by a mutiny.

Everything seems to be available somewhere - clothes, shoes, haircare products, beach chairs....

Here Pam is exploring the food court at the market. Local delicacies such as Souse, Curried Goat and the like are available.

The British built fortifications on Pigeon Island so they could keep their eyes on their French neighbors in nearby Martinique which can be seen on most days only 20 miles to the north. Here are the ruins of the officers quarters.

Fort Rodney sits atop the smaller of the two hills on Pigeon Island. The red are from the flowers of the Flamboyant trees, a familar site in the islands.

Cannon protecting Rodney bay from a French naval assault.

Looking north from Fort Rodney to Signal Hill - the highest point on Pigeon Island.

Martinique Southbound

2009-07-23T14:25:00.006-04:00

Being from the flat East Coast of the US, we continue to be fascinated by the clouds streaming over the mountains from an anchorage. Here we are in Grande Anse D'Arlet.

The rectangular sails on the local craft where characteristic of the sailboats around Le Marin.

We rented a car to tour Martinique. Because it is the windward side, sometimes it is necessary to make a man-made harbor for the local fishing boats.

Restoration on the Cathedral in Le Lorrain.

Mother and kids in the town of Le Morne Rouge (Red Mountain).

Looking at towards the Caribbean Sea, overlooking a small and well kept farm on the hillside in Le Morne Rouge.

Looking north to Mount Pelee from Le Morne Rouge, 1500 people were killed here a few months after an eruption destroyed the city of St. Pierre. Eruptions in 1929-1932 also heavily damaged the town.

We picked up bread and pate in the town and found this nice waterfall for our lunch.

Looking towards the Pitons du Carbet from the Route de la Trace. This route was cut through the rain forest by Jesuit priests in the 1700's

Eglise de Balata church, twin to the famous Basilica de Sacre Coeur in Paris.

We found thousands of red crabs in the town and St. Anne and its environs.

Part of the long sandy beach near Pointe des Salines.

This is also the site of a large saltwater lake. With Mangroves and many varieties of birds.

Fiddler crabs defend their territory with their one large claw.

Fisherman attends his boat near Ilet Chevalier.

Most the local sailing craft were very colorful.

Dominica Road Trip

2009-07-13T10:04:00.016-04:00

We met Sonny and Blake on Slow Mocean again (we had met them previously in the Bahamas). We decided to rent a car and tour the island of Dominica. Road Trip Road Trip!

We headed to the north east coast where the Atlantic Ocean rolls in from Africa.

We visited a cold soufrierie - a volcanic vent spewing forth sulfurous fumes but without the heat associated with other volcanic vents. The grayish color is due to the sulfur.

As we proceeded further south we were stopped by a man in an utility truck. He told us the road was unpassable a little further down and we needed to turn back. It was right after that we learned that the brakes had failed on the car so backtracking to Portsmouth would have been necessary in any case.

Underway in our new set of wheels, we crossed over the windward side of the island a little further south came upon the rugged Atlantic coast.

The lush tropical vegetation surrounds you everywhere you look.

Coconut trees are numerous. Coconut and coconut products are one of the leading exports from the Island. Some of Palmolive's coconut products are manufactured here.

We often see coconuts floating on the water. Here we found one sprouting on an Atlantic beach. Indigenous or Colonizer?

We saw a sign for the "#1 beach", so we drove our four wheel drive rental down a slightly overgrown path and found this black sand beach.

In the town of Calibishe, many homes overlook Porte d'Enfer, a natural arch that collapsed in 1956 leaving two rocky islets.

This box of avocados are ready for export to Martinique and are a testament to the excellent growing conditions on Dominica.

Before the arrival of Europeans, the islands were inhabited by numerous "Indian" tribes. The Caribs were among the more recent settlers and there were many Carib Indian settlements in the Caribbean when Columbus first arrived. Sadly most of the original inhabitants of the islands have disappeared but in Dominica the Carib Territory has been set aside for surviving Caribs. Their basket weaving style is unique in Caribbean.

A view of the Atlantic from the souvenir stand. A wonderful view and a wonderful breeze.

In the rain forest we found a tree we had never seen before.

There are moss and vines growing over everything. Someone added eyes and a tongue to make this intriguing woodland character.

Emerald Pool - cool and refreshing.

Looking north along the center of Dominica. There are seven volcanoes that were instrumental in the formation of the island and which gives it a very rugged terrain.

View from the anchorage at Roseau, the capitol of Dominica.

Sisserou Parrot Country and Milton Falls

2009-07-11T07:20:00.012-04:00

The highest point in Dominica is Morne Diablotins (4747 feet). It is also the area where the two parrots unique to the island can be found. The Imperial or Sisserou and the Red-neck or Jaco Parrot. We only saw the Jaco parrot but alas too hard to get a photo.

It was a wonderful day for a climb in the mountains. Although it had rained in the morning the skies were clear when we arrive in the afternoon.

There were many fruit trees along the way. Here are some starfruits.

Bananas are a major export crop

Papayas (Paw-Paw)

Even wild Raspberries

Fresh Water Shrimp. It would be hard to go hungry in this country.

Coffee beans.

Giant tree fern casts an interesting pattern in the sky.

Wild Roses

A field of Dasheen - much of which is exported

Shampoo plant - if you squeeze this bulb, water flows out which can be used to shampoo your hair.

Our Tour Group:
Alexis (our guide) Diane, Pam and Gregg.

Approaching Milton Falls

Indian River Trip

2009-07-10T18:10:00.013-04:00

The Carib Indians once lived on the shores of the Indian River and offers a fascinating tour.

The trip up the river is quiet - no motors are allowed. It is also narrow and well shaded.

The banks of the river are anchored by the roots of the bwa mang tree.

We saw egrets and iguanas in the trees

Wild Hibiscus also lines the shore.

There is a small garden displaying many of the indigenous plants. Here are some crotons.

Bird of Paradise

And a nice juicy caterpillar.

And a pineapple for dessert.

Arriving in Prince Rubert Bay, Dominica

2009-07-09T10:01:00.007-04:00

We had bypassed Dominica twice so we decided it was time for a visit. Other cruisers raved about the beauty of the island which was formed from seven volcanoes (most other islands were formed from only one) making it quite mountainous. For various reasons, Dominica has not had the development seen in the other Caribbean islands so much of it is unspoiled. The government under the leadership of Roosevelt Skerrit, the youngest leader ever elected in the Caribbean, as chosen eco-tourism as a primary focus.

One of the first things you notice in the anchorages is the number of wrecks that have been washed ashore in the town of Portsmouth. Since Prince Rupert Bay is open to the west, any hurricane which moves from west to east can make this bay a death trap for anchored boats (there is no marina on the island and no hurricane harbours). We learned that some of the older wrecks were driven ashore in the 1990s but there were several new wrecks from Omar a late season hurricane last year that formed in the Caribbean Sea and decided to head northeast instead of northwest. We have seen damage on many of the islands from this storm. The government plans to remove these wrecks although the have the advantage of protecting the buildings ashore from further damage. Here is a satellite image showing some of the older wrecks.

This is a recent wreck from hurricane Omar last year. The missing hull plating was to expedite the removal of the engine.

This is one of the older wrecks - the top most one in the satellite photo above.

The bottom most wreck in the satellite picture.

Making an acquitance in Portsmouth town.

North Sound, Antigua

2009-07-01T08:57:00.007-04:00

Cacophony. It’s one of the best words to describe the sounds of the many birds nesting and living on the islands of the north coast of Antigua. Both Antigua and Barbuda have perfect nesting conditions for sea birds. Away from civilization, leeward craggy sides of islands, and plentiful fish. We’ve been spending these days listening to cackles, coos, caws, and chirps. When we get marginally close to any of the islands we are met with a brigade of mother and father birds steering us far away from their babies. It’s all very lovely. We’ve mostly been by ourselves here in the north with an occasional boat anchored far away, but visible.

We’ve been in Antigua for a month and a half now. As a country it also includes the island of Barbuda. The islands are very different and we’ve enjoyed the civilization of Antigua and the remoteness of Barbuda. On Barbuda we journeyed with a guide and our cruising friends to the frigate bird nesting grounds. Cacophony there as well, plus a dazzling flying display from these large-winged birds. Only the mother and baby birds remained because the father birds leave once their work is done.

So here in Antigua around islands named Great Bird, Rabbit, Galley, Red Head, Maiden and Long we’re seeing sooty terns, brown noddies, laughing gulls, and male frigates. The snorkeling has been interesting. Lots of small fish. Even the one barracuda we saw was small. We dinghied over to a place called Hell’s Gate to snorkel and take some pictures. Once in the water, we were amazed to find thousands and thousands of 1 ½ inch silversides. It was like swimming into a blizzard of fish. Every move we made caused several hundred to stream in perfect unison around us. It was spectacular. We swam under the arch and sat in 1 foot of water looking out into the Atlantic Ocean with baby sargeant major fish curiously checking us out.

This is a satellite view taken from the "Where's Wildcat" link on the left when we were at RedHead (Our boat is at the spot labelled WB2LDV - Pam's ham radio call sign). You can see the Atlantic Ocean lying to the east (right hand side) with only the reef and few small rocky islets providing protection.

View towards the Atlantic from our anchorage.

This is one of the rocky islets protecting us from the Atlantic. Evidence of previous storms are evident.

Hell's Gate where we saw the multitudes of Silversides. Looking at the Atlantic.

Barbuda

2009-06-08T19:46:00.001-04:00

Barbuda is the furthest north we plan to go this year. It is very different from the other islands we have visited in the Caribbean. For one thing is quite low (the highest point is around 110 feet). It is also relatively undeveloped. It is surrounded by long pink beaches.

We arrived in Barbuda on the first of June making the 34 mile crossing in 4 and an half hours.

Click on any of the pictures to see a larger version.

The beach in the low bay area is 11 miles long. One night we were the only boat there.

Barbuda is also home to a large frigate bird rookery (rivaling the one in the Galapagos).

The birds nest in the mangroves. Here there are two adult and one young bird (to the right) which was born in the spring. After mating season, the male birds leave the island and leave the females to raise their one offspring.

The Highlands are on the Atlantic side of the island. You can enter the highlands through a small cave.

The highlands have a commanding view of the Atlantic Ocean on the windward side of the Island.

There are many reefs around the island which are the bane of sailors, particularly those approaching the windward side of the low lying island after a crossing of the Atlantic.

The island was stocked with deer, boars and other animals by Codrington who owned a plantation there. There are also horses and wild donkeys on the island.

Although the island is quite dry (reminding us of the Bahamas), it supports a surprising array of vegetation. Here is a succulent growing out a small space in the rocks.

Arriving in Antigua

2009-05-29T16:03:00.004-04:00

Arrived in Jolly Harbour, Antigua from Deshaies, Guadeloupe after a 6 1/2 hour trip of 48 nautical miles. We noticed that the waters around Antigua were shallower than those around the islands to the south. Nice to be able to see the bottom so easily.

Click on any picture to see a larger version.

Shortly before we arrived, Antigua hosted its well attended race week. Many classic sailing yachts stay until after this event before they return to the Mediterranean for the summer. This Dutch boat was one of the last of the mega sailboats to leave.

The Pillars of Hercules mark the entrance into English Harbour, the major reprovisioning and repair port in the Caribbean for the English Navy. Because of its importance to the English, Antigua was never occupied by another European power.

Nelson' boatyard contained all the shops needed to recondition British naval vessels of the time. Here we see the columns that supported the sail loft.

Shirley Heights overlooking both English Harbour and Falmouth Harbour (in the background) was a key lookout as well as military settlement. You can see both the inner and outer anchorages at English Harbour. Wildcat is in the inner harbour.

The climb to Shirley Heights is strenuous but you are rewarded with not only spectacular views, but also interesting flora like this cactus in bloom.

A hummingbird feeds on the blossoms of the century plant.

Fort Barrington is an English fort at the southern end of the entrance to St. John's Harbour (as seen from Deep Bay).

Looking down from Fort Barrington at Wildcat and the beach at Deep Bay

Guadeloupe

2009-05-16T11:48:00.001-04:00

On the tenth of May we left St. Pierre, Martinique at 0400 and sailed past Dominica to Iles Des Saintes, Guadeloupe arriving around 1500 (3PM) after a trip of 75 nautical miles.

You can click on any picture to get a larger version.

We first anchored off the town Bourg Des Saintes before moving over to an anchorage near the Pain A Sucre (Sugar Loaf) mini piton.

Nearby is Le Chameau Lookout Tower (1036 feet). Iles Des Saintes has many fortifications set up by the French. The naval battle off The Saintes in 1782 established England's supremacy of the seas. More than 6000 men perished and the French fleet was decimated. We decided we needed to climb to Le Chameau for our own lookout.

Nearing the top we had a wonderful view of Bourge Des Saintes.

Le Chameau lookout tower had impressive views south to Dominica and north the main island of Guadeloupe.

We met more goats than people on the trail.

Unlike many other islands we visited, the goats on Terre D'en Haut were unconcerned about our presence.

Our next trip took us to the large and mountainous island of Basse Terre.

We stopped at Pigeon Island home of the Cousteau Underwater Park which some claim is one of the 10 best diving areas in the world. We saw fish there we had no seen elsewhere in the Caribbean and the colors of the fish and coral seemed somehow brighter.

We picked up a dive mooring uncomfortably close to the rocky shore but decided to stay overnight nonetheless.

Our last port of call in Guadeloupe was Deshaies, a small fishing port on the Northwest coast of Basse Terre.

October 2008 Hurricane Omar, a late season storm spawned in the Caribbean and headed East causing extensive damage to many exposed anchorages on the west side of the islands. We believe the damaged boat in this picture was a victim as well as the small dock that used to be immediately to the left.

Martinique

2009-05-10T11:53:00.013-04:00

Martinique is only a short 26 mile sail from St. Lucia which we made on the 3rd of May. Although the island is French, the English in St. Lucia kept a watch over the movements of the French fleet.

During the Napoleonic Wars, Admiral Samuel Hood landed British sailors on Diamond Rock. It was registered as the British naval vessel HMS Diamond Rock and was able to enforce a blockade of Martinique on the south side of the island. Frustrated by its inability to capture the rock, the French floated barrels of rum on the tide to the rock and were able to capture it after the English sailors partook of this unexpected bounty.

We came upon this bull grazing in a traffic circle on our walk to Anse D'Arlet. It is common to see goats grazing along the side of the road but but we had not seen cows and bulls grazing by the roads since the Dominican Republic.

Trois Ilets a quiet town across from Fort-de-France was once the home of Empress Josephine who was born nearby. It gets its name from three islands that provide some protection from the winds and seas.

Fort-de-France one of the larger cities in the Eastern Caribbean Islands. Many fine restaurants can be found here.

The public library building is a metal building manufactured in France and shipped to Martinque.

The interior of the library.

Leaving Fort-de-France for Anse Mitan.

Anchored off the beach in Saint Pierre.

Overlooking the harbor at St. Pierre, Mount Pelee in the background. Its eruption in 1902 killed almost 30,000 residents with only one or two survivors. Up to that point, St. Pierre was the capital of Martinique. The town has been rebuilt. Luckily these volcanoes only erupt every 100 years or so. Nervous?

Portable Marimbas on display on the butterfly farm. But alas the butterflys have flown and art and music have taken their place.

Union Island to St. Lucia

2009-05-03T09:23:00.026-04:00

We arrived in Grenada from Florida in late March to prepare Wildcat for relaunching. We left Grenada on the 6th of April to head north to meet friends in St. Lucia. This is view of Clifton Harbour on Union Island looking over the protesting reef.
(NOTE: click on any picture for a larger version)

From Union Island we went to Bequia, also part of the Grenadines. While we were there, the Bequians were celebrating Easter with boat races and music and food. Here is a local sloop racing among the moored cruising fleet.

After five days in Bequia, we left for St. Lucia around 2:30 AM for the 62 mile trip arriving around 1PM in Marigot Bay.

St. Lucia is a mountainous islands with a sulfur spring and two imposing pitons that plunge into the water at the south end of the island providing a spectacular anchorage.

Wildcat moored off the Petit Piton (2460 feet high) with water depths in th hundreds of feet less than a quarter of a mile offshore.

Gros Piton (2619 feet) in the early morning.

Nearby is the National Botanical Garden.

Rainbow Falls stained with the minerals bubbling out of Sulfur Springs.

Steam venting at Sulfur Springs.

Bat Caves (vertical slits in cliff face) near Soufriere.

Petit Piton from Dasheen's

Looking north over the town of Soufriere, the Pitons and Sulfur Springs (steam venting on the left side of the photo). The presence of many French names is a legacy of the multiple occupations of St. Lucia which changed hands 14 times over a period of 150 years.